Retro Crestliner Discussion Forum

mak3r0fth1ngs · Joined: 05 May 2009 Posts: 41 Location: Alexandria, KY

Thought I'd post pictures of the progress of my 58 14' Voyager now that I've got the time to plow through it (teacher with the summer off!). Feel free to ask questions... by no means am I an expert, just taking it slow to do it right.

mak3r0fth1ngs · Joined: 05 May 2009 Posts: 41 Location: Alexandria, KY

I'd love it if these images could be posted in the body of my first post but when I use the Img button, I only get a grey URL that won't link. When I use the URL button, everyhting is fine. Anyone have any advice on how to post picutres in the body of a post... I did a search and followed the directions listed from here: http://retrocrestliner.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=264&highlight=posting+pictures

Would it have anything to do with the fact that I'm on a MAC computer????

george · Joined: 30 Apr 2005 Posts: 78 Location: Saskatchewan

The pictures in the first post above are very good.

You must teach shop, Huh?

I only buy HP computers - but I was an accountant, before I decided to go fishing.

Very diligent work... thanks.

mak3r0fth1ngs · Joined: 05 May 2009 Posts: 41 Location: Alexandria, KY

Thanks George,
Yes I'm a shop teacher of sorts... I teach art (sculpture and freshman foundation) classes at a local college in northern KY. My wife and I are due in August with our 2nd child and I promised my 4 year old the boat would be in the water before the new one was born. As long as it doen't come early, I should finish in time. Next order of business is to prep and paint the deck, paint the bilge area with a non slip product, and buff out the molded aluminum trim to a high gloss. Pictures will follow....

Chris · Joined: 15 May 2004 Posts: 270 Location: North West

Not sure what's going on with the Img thing, I tried it too, and didn't work for me either. I use photobucket and it works fine.

Seats look great! Very nice job there.

It's funny how when these boats are upside down and stripped, they sort of look like a simple rowboat. Looking forward to more progress.
_________________
Chris
1956 Commander 520
1956 Viking
'55 Johnson 10,'57 Johnson 18,'55 Johnson 25
1958 Evinrude Lark 35

http://www.retrocrestliner.com/viewerphotospage53.htm

http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p156/7car7/Aluminum%20Runabouts/My%20Boats/

mak3r0fth1ngs · Joined: 05 May 2009 Posts: 41 Location: Alexandria, KY

Chris, yeh, I know what you mean about the rowboat but now that the old crusty paint is off, I can see the real potential. BTW - I tried moving all my images over to photobucket like you suggested and linking from there and had the same problem... guess I'll just post through URL for the time being. Nice boat too, do you have yours clear coated or waxed? -Martin

Chris · Joined: 15 May 2004 Posts: 270 Location: North West

scotty1957 · Joined: 07 Jul 2004 Posts: 195 Location: Ames, IA

In Photobucket look for the image codes to copy as shown in the screen shot below.--for this forum I just copy the IMG Code by clicking on it--then just paste it into the message box here. I'm running Windows Vista.

_________________
'55 Commander 12'
'55 Admiral 16'
'57 35HP Evinrude Big Twin
'57 18HP Evinrude Fastwin

mak3r0fth1ngs · Joined: 05 May 2009 Posts: 41 Location: Alexandria, KY

Hey Thanks Scotty1957, I edited my first post and it worked! I'll be posting more pictures later this week as I've got more pictures to post... almost done with the interior paint and deck. Thanks again.
-Martin

mak3r0fth1ngs · Joined: 05 May 2009 Posts: 41 Location: Alexandria, KY

Well, I just finished the interior paint and am quite pleased with the results for never having restored a boat. New pictures have been added to the beginning of the thread

The interior and splash box were etched with a metal etching primer, then a tie coat then two coats of Pettit Easypoxy brand topcoat, "Platinum" color. The bottom of the interior is an anti slip material called Kiwigrip. The bare aluminum was etched again then brushed the Kiwigrip on thick and then rolled with a open fiber roller. The longer you wait to roll it the stiffer the nap of the paint.... making for a more aggressive tooth to the surface. I'm really happy so far with this product as it was the one I had the most trouble researching for a modern application. Here's a link to their site: http://www.pachena.com/KiwiGrip_Colors.html
It's not cheap at $115 a gallon but I have about half left from the interior of my 14 foot restoration. You can buy their already tinted cans or buy a can of white and take it to a paint store to have it custom tinted... whole other story about having Sherwin Williams tint the stuff but it turned out great.... basically had the entire can explode in their shaker/mixer due to a rusted ear on the can where the handle attached... I offered to clean it up and was able to salvage about half of it but I called Kiwigrip and they sent a new can in two days to replace the one that blew up... super nice and great technical and customer service.

Since I was already done with the wooden seats and seat back for the rear, I attached them to the aluminum floats (under the seats) that I assume were original... I remember someone asking if they were original in a previous thread. I haven't bolted them to the inside of the boat yet but set them in for the pictures... finally got a pattern to make the front seat backs.

I started to paint the deck and rear stern area above the splash box but have become so frustrated with painting a topcoat under a tree with all the bugs and debris that falls out that I stripped both parts and will try again when I make a makeshift tent out of two by fours and plastic sheeting. The color looks great with the boat but too many bug tracks and crumbs in the surface as it dried. I'll post more pictures when I get further along.
-Martin

Chris · Joined: 15 May 2004 Posts: 270 Location: North West

Looks great! I can't wait to restore mine, that's really inpiring.

Not sure about the paint you're using, but it's usually best to let the bugs and junk dry, then sand them out later and then buff. You're not likely to get a PERFECT finish without some dry repairs later.
_________________
Chris
1956 Commander 520
1956 Viking
'55 Johnson 10,'57 Johnson 18,'55 Johnson 25
1958 Evinrude Lark 35

http://www.retrocrestliner.com/viewerphotospage53.htm

http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p156/7car7/Aluminum%20Runabouts/My%20Boats/

mak3r0fth1ngs · Joined: 05 May 2009 Posts: 41 Location: Alexandria, KY

Thanks Chris,
You've got a nice boat yourself... I really like your metal work and windshield and in fact I just got a set of windshield brackets and am considering installing them with a slightly different window shape. Initially, I wanted to restore a wood boat and loved the old windshields but with a 4 year old and one due in two weeks, I decided to go for an aluminum boat restoration as I could be in the water much sooner than having to restore a wood boat. Eight months after getting my first Crestliner and two months into my restoration, I've fallen in love with the vintage Crestliner aluminum boats and have another to restore over the winter. I'd love to get an 18 foot voyager if one should come for sale near Ohio.

I'm pretty handy at most things but I will admit I'm real green when it comes to paint finishes, especially applying them and finishing them. If you wouldn't mind, could you be more specific about what you mean by "dry repairs" and how exactly do you "sand out" and buff after the final topcoat of paint is dry? I'm using a metal etch primer and a tie coat prior to top coating with Pettit Easypoxy topcoat paint. Today was a better day for painting as I switched tie coats and this new one (still a Pettit brand too) sands real well, and is smooth to get out most of the roller and brush marks out. I topcoated and have a slight orange peel finish and reckon I'll have to sand that as well before I brush the final topcoat. Any advice? Thanks.
-Martin