Retro Crestliner Discussion Forum

Tim&Val · Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 6

My wife and I are the proud owners of an 18 Voyager - Title says 1960, although in looking at the catalogs online, it looks like a 1957. I will confirm with the hull i.d. #.

We saved this boat from being bass boatized, and the eventual trip to the scrap yard. My intentions are to make it a safe fishing vessel. There are a few rivets that are weaping, and areas in the seams along the sides of the hull. I have looked at various options including low viscosity epoxy, and have recently been told I should look for a qualified welder to TIGG weld the seams. Does anyone have experience through trial and error with this?

Secondly, the transom is currently a 16 1/2 transom (not sure if that is original or not) However, because of the availability of motors in short shaft (at least those in my price range) I am interested in raising the height of the transom. I wish not to offend anyone with such a request in not doing a per specs restoration, again I am attempting to make this a safe and reliable fishing vessel. I will be adding flotation in areas to give her level flotation as well. I welcome all constructive input, and thank you in advance for your knowledge.

Day_Cruiser · Joined: 02 Feb 2004 Posts: 198 Location: Alexandria, VA

Be very careful about welding thin aluminum. It can easily warp.

Sure, some boats are factory-built with seam welds, but they "own" that process. Somebody working with your 50-year-old boat could have disastrous results.

You can pound tight your existing rivets; or, re-rivet; or, try the Cabelas' epoxy that uses a propane torch; or even use stainless steel wide-flange bolts that some rebuilders recommend.

There is even a website devoted to "aluminum boat repair" Just Google those words.

For outboard motors, short shaft = 15"; long shaft =20"; and extra long shaft = 25". Be sure you describe your needs accurately.

For extra flotation, I just stuffed about 22 of those "pool noodles" into the fins of my boat. Should be good for about 1,500 pounds. Bought them at a dollar store.
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1958/9 14' Crestliner Jetstreak

Tim&Val · Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 6

Thank you for the info. I'll start simple, re-setting the rivets in the problem areas, then the next step. I have sheets of black closed cell foam that is manufactured locally - used for packing - and put it high up in strategic areas. I have done "scientific" testing of the foam; submerged it under weight for 24 hours in a big tub of water, no weight change in the foam after 24 hours, no other evidence of water retention; poured gas on it with no ill effect, as well as gas and oil mixture on it with no ill effect.

My hope is to be able to raise height of transom to 20" because of the availability of motors to repower the boat. I know that flies in the face of a true repro job, however short shaft motors in the higher horsepower are pretty scarce in my neck of the woods.

The major river here will remain open through November so we hope to be able to launch the Voyager under power before winterizing her. Her hull shape and shallow draft fit the type of fishing, and cruising, we like to do and we are excited to be able to put her to use once again.

mak3r0fth1ngs · Joined: 05 May 2009 Posts: 41 Location: Alexandria, KY

Welcome to the forum Tim&Val,

Just a thought... on some boats I've seen people keep the shorter transom as it is, in case they have an opportunity to find a short shaft to fit down the road. In the mean time, you could fabricate, or have a welder fabricate a sturdy stainless plate with a marine plywood face that acts as a removable bracket. It would of course need to be bolted to the transom but if you ever found a short shaft you could simply remove the bracket extension. Once you refit your transom for a permanent long shaft size, it will be harder to go back to a short shaft w/o cutting into the transom. My 2 cents. -Martin

Chris · Joined: 15 May 2004 Posts: 270 Location: North West

Just a note on floatation - you'd actually want it as LOW as possible, not as high as possible. Having it low will possibly keep the boat from getting lower in the water. Having it high, well, the boat would be submerged before the foam would ever get wet.
_________________
Chris
1956 Commander 520
1956 Viking
'55 Johnson 10,'57 Johnson 18,'55 Johnson 25
1958 Evinrude Lark 35

http://www.retrocrestliner.com/viewerphotospage53.htm

http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p156/7car7/Aluminum%20Runabouts/My%20Boats/

OutBdNut · Joined: 27 Mar 2005 Posts: 593 Location: Minnesota

If you want to stick with motors from the same period as your boat, availability of 30 to 40 HP motors from the 1950s and 1960s with short shafts is much better than long shaft availability. If you want to get into old V-4 Johnsons and Evinrudes (60 - 75, 85 HP), most were long shaft but can easily be converted to short shaft by removing the housing extension, shortening the cooling lines, and shift rod if not electric shift. The only thing you will have to round up is a short drive shaft and that should be easy - either through a free wanted ad at antique outboard club site: www.aomci.org on their "Webtervise" board or at this place:
http://twincityoutboard.com/ which is a big outboard junkyard.
Now if you are looking for a much newer motor for dependability, or 4 stroke, then, you are right that short shafts get scarce. Newer motors do not have the capability of shaft length being converted easily as it isn't done with an extension to the housing anymore.
Dave
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57 Commander 12 Custom Deluxe 550
58 Commodore 14 Speedster (modified)
58 Cadillac Riviera 14 split deck
Dozens of old outboards

Tim&Val · Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 6

Thanks to all for your input, much to consider.

Tim&Val · Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 6

Chris, just for informational purposes, in regards to flotation; The information I refer to is contained in the following; U.S. Department of Transportation United States Coast Guard; Safety Standards For Backyard Boat Builders; COMDTPUB P16761.3B (I believe this is the publication number).

Please Note; the best information comes not from me, but from a reading of the entire Coast Guard publication on the subject.

There are 53 pages in the Safety Standards and a lot of calculations for figuring how much flotation in addition to the "basic flotation", including where to place flotation, which does include symetrically placing the flotation throughout the hull. The following quote is just a small portion of the entire standard: "The additional flotation you add to support the motor and maximum persons capacity must be placed around the motor (in the rear corners of runabouts and jonboats) and high in the sides of the passenger carrying area.

Chris · Joined: 15 May 2004 Posts: 270 Location: North West

That's interesting. THat would make sense in a fully swamped situation, being that the side (and high) foam would add to stability (keep the boat from rolling over) once it's swamped.

I think I was looking at it more as a "oh dang! We just ripped a hole in the bottom of the boat - But the sides of the boat are staying dry".

So, yeah, I see your point - additional foam would be helpful in the sides and up high. But certainly mostly at the motor.
_________________
Chris
1956 Commander 520
1956 Viking
'55 Johnson 10,'57 Johnson 18,'55 Johnson 25
1958 Evinrude Lark 35

http://www.retrocrestliner.com/viewerphotospage53.htm

http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p156/7car7/Aluminum%20Runabouts/My%20Boats/