Retro Crestliner Discussion Forum

mnobfan · Joined: 06 Sep 2010 Posts: 8 Location: Kenneth, Minnesota

My name is Curt and I am new to the forum. My user name is mnobfan (Minnesota outboard fan). Member of AOMCI. Picked up a Jetstreak this weekend off ebay. Needs lots of work like complete interior and transom rebuild. Don't know a whole lot about it since it hasn't come home yet. Seller says 14 footer but width matches 15 footer. Comes with a 58 Johnson RDS-20 which needs work but I have most of the parts laying around. If that motor won't run I can always put the 57 Javelin on it. Anyone have a source or code for the Goddess Gold paint? Think it would look better than the blue with the motors I would run.

bigwheel · Joined: 19 Jul 2010 Posts: 17 Location: MN

If it's the one from Souix Falls, I'm pretty sure that it's a 15ft, based on pictures.

From what I can tell, the Jetstreak 15 is actually 14 ft stem to stern. I originally thought that the 15 was a rare breed, but I'm beginning to see them all over the place. I think a lot of 15s are mistaken for 14s.

Enjoy the project!

mnobfan · Joined: 06 Sep 2010 Posts: 8 Location: Kenneth, Minnesota

Yes it is the one from Sioux Falls. Reading through some of the discussions it seems that some manufacturers measured around hull rather than over the hull. I guess I'll know more Saturday when I pick it up and can look for the hull numbers. Thanks to previous posts here I now know where to look and what numbers to look for.

mnobfan · Joined: 06 Sep 2010 Posts: 8 Location: Kenneth, Minnesota

Yes it is the one from Sioux Falls. Reading through some of the discussions it seems that some manufacturers measured around hull rather than over the hull. I guess I'll know more Saturday when I pick it up and can look for the hull numbers. Thanks to previous posts here I now know where to look and what numbers to look for.

mnobfan · Joined: 06 Sep 2010 Posts: 8 Location: Kenneth, Minnesota

Well the old girl made it home today. Yes she is a 15 footer. Found the numbers stamped on the starboard side but a little aft of where I thought they would be. Model 752 and Serial number 4511. Haven't found a letter after four digit serial yet. At sometime in her history she was registered in South Dakota. Can make out the SD and then some other numbers. She was also registered in Minnesota as there is the old Minnesota shaped sticker still visible. Now I think I see why the transom was replaced with a full width board. Judging by the marks, someone was running a twin motor setup at sometime. Suppose twin 57 Javelins would be too much for her? Okay so would exceed the max HP by 10HP not to mention the weight. The aft light appears to have been ripped away. If it was mounted on the port side of the sheet metal that covers the transom up towards the rear seat. Drain plug is still here but should it have a rubber gasket or was it just metal to metal? Steering wheel is not stock. Bow light is not stock. Looks like one from a 70's Larson. Not sure how much of the sheet metal on the inside of the hull has been modified. Still all in all she seems to be a very sound hull. Not that it matters but the remote controls are Bosun making it Gale. Yes I know it is the same as the Johnson or Evinrude but maybe not as common. Lots of work ahead for me and her.

54fleetwin · Joined: 07 Sep 2010 Posts: 30 Location: North of San Diego

Nice,
Those Jetstreaks are cool looking.
Your project looks a little nicer to start with than my Commodore 810 and I am missing the drain plug

bigwheel · Joined: 19 Jul 2010 Posts: 17 Location: MN

At the risk of getting tarred and feathered...

I am also working on a Jetstreak 15. My plan is to not restore it to original form, but rather to turn it into my do-everything boat. Pull skiers, ride around, some fishing, etc. This means a from-scratch non-standard interior, too big/modern of a motor, and a bunch of other stuff that will likely get me thrown out of all restoration forums.

I love the old aluminum boats (Crestliner, Alumicraft) and would rather put my time and money into a $400 hull, rather than buying a boat that looks like every other one on the lake. My current boat is a 1957 Viking Speedster, which I stripped down to bare metal, and polished it shiny. Comfortable seats, and raised, carpeted floor with lots fo flotation hidden everywhere. Boxed off storeage/gas compartment, and a 50hp Mercury 4-stroke. On the lake, it is a classy boat. One-of-a-kind, and we we've use it every summer weekend since I rebuilt it 13 years ago. A few weeks ago, we decided to try and duplicate the picture of the Speedster out of the old Crestliner catalog, where the boat is pulling two skiers. The boat was able to pull my wife and her sister, who were in diapers when the boat was originally built. Lots of fun.

Unfortunately, a major hailstorm did a number on the polished aluminum deck last year, so I decided to take that as an opportunity to start from scratch again, with a Jetstreak 15. Two people have already told me that when I sell the Speedster, that they want it. Anyway, it's good to see a 50's vintage boat still out on the water making people happy. (Sorry for digressing with background chatter, but I'm just trying to justify what I'm guessing is an unpopular decision.)

Anyway, as part of the Jetstreak rebuild, my plan is for a 70hp 4-stroke Yamaha (F-70). Needless to say, the transom wasn't built for that heavy or powerful of a motor, and not built for a long-shaft engine. I've been doing a lot of design, and have a plan that I think will work for the huge motor, without hiding the fins, and still be able to handle the stern wave that will likely come over the back when I stop. To make matters worse, the person who owned it before me also tried too big of a motor, and ended up with a large crack in the stern. So, in addition to beefing up the stern/transom, I have to repair the damage from the last person that tried it. The down-side is that according to my estimates, I will be adding about 30-40 pounds of aluminum by the time I am done. It will be interesting. I'm also probably going to have to add trim tabs (SmartTabs), and put the battery and gas tank under the front deck. My Speedster has a big fin on the motor, but it still tends to porpoise at high speeds. The bigger (although not heavier) F-70 will likely be worse.

This winter/spring/early summer, when I get it together and polished, I'll post some pictures. So far, I have it gutted, and have the paint stripped off. I now have cardboard models for some of the interior, and just received my order of seats and carpet. My plan is to polish most of the hull, but paint the fins, some highlights, and the 1-ft part of the deck between the dash and the windshield (which I also have to make).

It's going to be a lot of work, but I'm looking forward to the project. I've never seen a finned boat out on the lakes, and am anxious to hear the "What the heck is that!" comments.

54fleetwin · Joined: 07 Sep 2010 Posts: 30 Location: North of San Diego

How do you get past the authorities with over powering?
Also the heavier engine will make the back of the boat even lower in the water.

bigwheel · Joined: 19 Jul 2010 Posts: 17 Location: MN

Day_Cruiser · Joined: 02 Feb 2004 Posts: 198 Location: Alexandria, VA

There were maximum horsepower statements in the sales catalogs, but not on the boats. I don't think that such tags were legally required in the boats until about 1972.

So, your only real legal issue would be if you cause a serious accident and a legal team obtains an original catalog showing that you have exceeded the limit. Worse, this thread could prove that you were aware of it.

In terms of modern motors.I have a 2009 Tohatsu 20hp 4-stroke on my 14' Jetstreak and love it! Also have modern Teleflex steering under the original steering wheel.

It may get interesting for you to try to load-level your boat, especially with a front gas thank.

Keep us informed.
_________________
1958/9 14' Crestliner Jetstreak

mnobfan · Joined: 06 Sep 2010 Posts: 8 Location: Kenneth, Minnesota

I will try to keep the boat as stock as possible with the exception of the paint. Plan is to strip to bare metal as the paint job is horrendous. Looks like a brush job. The hull will be back to white but the top where the blue is will be Johnson Javelin Gold. Where the bow handle mounts will become black. Sort of mimic the 57 Javelin. The interior I plan on painting with the black fleck and the seats done in the white and black with the silver piping. Although a gold color wouldn't be so bad either. The 6 ashtrays that are riveted to the interior are goners. Was also thinking of making 2 interiors with the second one having a floor and either pedestal or fold down seats. Would be better suited for fishing that way. Not sure what to do about the bow light yet. Plenty of time to worry about that latter. Figure anything not riveted is not stock. Also have to find a steering wheel that is more appropriate. Guy I bought this from sent me an email after he found another 58 Super Sea Horse 35HP and offered it to me for parts. Not being totally stupid I said you better believe I want it!

bigwheel · Joined: 19 Jul 2010 Posts: 17 Location: MN

I might have a steering wheel for you. It's the one I pulled out of my Jetstreak. I have no use for it.

Here's a photo (from the guy who sold it to me). http://www.retrocrestliner.com/nathansmith/nathansmith-Images/2.jpg

It is in so-so shape, but you can have it if you reimburse my shipping cost. I'll also throw in the motor controls and the broken speedo (both in sad shape) if you want them.

Unfortunately, I have the boat at my cabin and it will be 3 weeks before I get up there again.

mnobfan · Joined: 06 Sep 2010 Posts: 8 Location: Kenneth, Minnesota

Wheel is, well looks like something out of a race car. One of the ash trays is visible just above the controls. Looks like they cut the recess out and reversed it to clear the ash tray. That should be a real fun fix. Hard to see in the pictures but they installed a radio below the black plate in center and a digital clock to the right of that. The recess for the controls on the port side has a plate riveted over it. The rear light was torn out literally. Having torn a couple of Pipestone boats and a Larson apart I have some fittings. Steering cables, pulleys, springs. Mooring cleats shaped like the one in bigwheel's photo in couple different sizes. Oblong cleats, one steering wheel and drum but not the same as it has an oval shaped center. Three or four controls and wiring harnesses.

bigwheel · Joined: 19 Jul 2010 Posts: 17 Location: MN

Bummer about the holes. I have a few smaller ones, and a couple dented spots to deal with on mine. The previous owner must have installed a canopy, and did a hack job on it, drilling a half-inch hole that goes clear through both sides of each fin, plus denting in the forward tops of the fins. Plus, a few miscellaneous holes that I have no clue why they exist.

I'm planning to smooth out the metal around the holes, and then back them with a thin aluminum sheet that I'll probably glue in with JB Weld. Then, use an aluminum epoxy filler stick to fill the holes and smooth it out.

I've used the epoxy sticks in the past, and they work surprisingly well. Just cut off a chunk, kneed it for a while, and then apply like putty. It dries strong and hard, and can be sanded. Once dry, it takes on the gray aluminum color and is water tight. I think it will look okay after it is painted, but I'm guessing that a keen eye will be able to see the patch.

http://www.starbrite.com/productdetail.cfm?ID=1461&ProductCat=Marine&ProductSCat=Epoxies%20%26%20Adhesives%20%26%20Caulks&ProductSSCat=Epoxies