Retro Crestliner Discussion Forum

A while back in another thread, Kirkp posted a link to an instructable page on metal etching. I was looking for a way to reproduce the look of the metal foil bow logo stickers on my Feather Craft. While I didn't end up using the electro-etching method described in the link, it did send me down a similar path to make some reproduction parts that, I think, turned out pretty well.

Around that time, another member here asked if I had any ideas on refreshing the 'CRESTLINER' text on an Attwood steering wheel trim ring. Attwood apparently supplied wheels to a number of boat makers as OEM equipment and imprinted the trim rings with the manufacturer's name. These look to have been screen printed and not particularly durable. Turned out that mine was in pretty rough shape too and didn't withstand cleaning the ring. Since perusing Kirk's link I was set up to saline etch aluminum for that other project and this seemed like a good application for it as well. (...When you have a hammer, all of your problems look like nails, or something along those lines). After some experimentation I decided that the original part was a bit too thin for this, particularly since I was planning to fill the etched area with paint. So, I cut some new blanks from .050 aluminum sheet.

I won't go into excruciating detail on how it's done (...the link above explains it all, right down to the recipe and the chemical reactions involved), but the pictures will give you some idea of the steps involved...


First, a resist is applied to the part to mask off the areas we don't want etched. The sides and back are covered with clear packing tape to protect them as well. The resist I'm using here is a product called P&P Blue. It's used primarily by home circuit board makers. You print the design as a reversed negative with a laser printer and iron it on to the part. It's kind of fussy and I've since moved on to a photosensitive material that I find a bit easier to use. The darker areas on the ready to etch parts are touch-ups of flaws and pin holes in the resist with clear nail polish ...which, fortunately, my wife hasn't noticed missing yet.
The artwork provides both a center and the inner and outer cut lines. When placed in the mordant solution you'll see the reaction start to take place almost immediately. The brown gunk is primarily copper, which needs to be gently brushed away every minute or so for a cleaner etch.


Once out of the solution, the part is rinsed to stop the reaction and the resist is removed with acetone or laquer thinner. I don't have a lathe so I needed to cobble up a jig for my disc sander to sand them round and the rest of the finishing is done by hand. The ones on the lower left are left with a matte finish using maroon Scotch-Brite on a DA sander. I cleaned them with some NAPA Aluminum Brightener, dabbed in some paint, and squeegeed it off, cleaning up with some thinner on a rag after the paint had a chance to set up a bit. The one on the lower right was wet sanded to 1500 and polished. The sanding and polishing softens the edges of the etch, but I kinda like the look and this one is going on my Jetstreak. An original one is at the lower left. You can just barely see the original Crestliner text.

This is a pretty simple process using easy to obtain, and not particularly dangerous chemicals. You could easily try it yourself. I'm happy to answer any questions and can maybe produce some of these if there's a need. PM me if you need one. Since I'm drawing the artwork that the resist are made from it'd be a simple matter to make them read something other than 'CRESTLINER' too.

To give you an idea what is possible with this method, this is what I was originally trying to do and what I was able to make this way...

Rick
WOW they look great. you got mad skills
Chuck

Thanks Chuck. This is one of those projects that looks harder than it is.

I just talked to a friend at work who bought a CO2 laser. It's able to do black text on aluminum with great resolution, and as such would be able to do a nearly exact copy of the steering wheel trim rings. I need to order some sheet for another project and will get some extra for this.

Wow, that's awesome. Factory like results.

Very cool, Rick. I was trying to find a simple backyard procedure for acid etching a while back. This will renew my efforts. How did you cut the text?

Thanks for the kind words...

wbeaton wrote:How did you cut the text?

That's been the challenge. The stuff in the pics above is printed (...backwards) on a laser printer and ironed onto the part. This was kind of hit or miss for me, and I had to do several before I got a usable resist. My reading suggests that this has a lot to do with the specific printer and toner combination. My HP printer with an OEM toner cartridge might have worked much better, but I wasn't willing to spring for the $85 HP cartridge to find out. I've since started to use a dry film photo resist material. It's a little more work to prepare, expose, and develop it, plus it requires a bit more infrastructure. It makes the process a lot more predictable and repeatable though. I was looking for a solution that would let me go right from artwork to etching while maintaining control of the process and not having to wait for someone to ship me the masks. If you just wanted to make a couple of parts, ordering up a vinyl decal of your image that's weeded as a negative, would work just fine too.

The chemicals involved are not dangerous (...I actually had all of them on hand), and can be re-used, rejuvenated, and easily made safe for disposal. No special equipment is needed for the etching itself. My 'tank' above is just a plastic paint roller tray with a piece of light fixture egg crate from the hardware store, to give the copper gunk created during the reaction someplace to sink to. Definitely give it a try if you're so inclined. I need to gear up for a run of plates soon. If there's any interest I can take better pics of the current process from start to finish to better show just what's involved.

Thanks for taking the time to give a thorough answer, Rick. I thought about using vinyl decals for one offs, but it would get costly if I wanted to make a bunch of parts. Cutting text by hand can look a little sloppy, too. I look forward to doing some etching. Thanks.

So I wanted to thank Rick for the new ring he sent for my steering wheel. The ring looks great on it and is top notch.
thanks again Rick!

That looks fantastic.

Thanks for posting that Jose; you're quite welcome. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the boat.

Since I originally posted this i managed to find a nice old 1946 South bend 9" lathe. I have a couple other projects in the works that needed one, but it definitely makes producing stuff like this a lot easier. These get etched first, with an index mark in the center. That's then drilled out, mounted on a mandrel and finished on the lathe. The lettering can then be filled with paint. The only problem with this process, from a purist's point of view, is that it's pretty easy to tell that they're not original. To have enough 'meat' to accommodate the etching I need to use a thicker material too. Personally, that doesn't bother me, but some people it might.

A friend at work recently bought a CO2 laser. His machine is capable of engraving/etching black text on the aluminum that is pretty much indistinguishable from the original ones, plus I can use the thinner aluminum. If I have to do more of these, this'd be a great option.

Speaking of not quite original, I was playing with the idea of a custom one ...just in case I need to be reminded what kind of boat I'm driving

Just a quick update...

I can now provide replacement center caps along with the trim rings for these Attwood steering wheels. While I couldn't source chrome plated ones in the correct size, these matte nickel plated ones look nice and fit just like the original ones do.

Looks great Rick. What are you asking for them?
Kirk

Hey Kirk,

Rings are $35, or $40 with a center cap, shipped to the US.

I had originally posted this over on the Feather Craft site, but there may not be a lot of crossover between there and here, and some of you might be interested as well...

Along with the trim rings, I started making some custom switch panels, beginning with the one I did for my Vagabond. I’ve done a few of these so far and am now able to produce more of them. The etching thing started as a way to reproduce the Feather Craft bow plates for my Vagabond, but has grown into producing other parts that lend themselves to the technique. This is an avocation for me as I still have to work full time at my ‘real’ job, but here’s what I can offer:

Switch Panels

The panels are made from 0.063" 5052-H32 aluminum sheet, into which the labels and logos are chemically etched. The etched areas are then paint filled in your choice of color.
They can be supplied in any stage of completion, from bare panels with just labels to complete with switches, with or without switch guards, boots, wiring, connectors, and mounting hardware. Switches are good quality from Cole-Hersey in whatever configuration you require (SPST, SPDT, DPST, momentary, etc.). Connectors, if required, are Deutch DT series, weatherproof.
Any shape panel is possible, and can be tailored to your requirements (...covering existing holes, etc.). Sizes up to 3.5” x 11” are standard but larger sizes are possible. If you have existing switches and don't want to make additional holes, I can make a 'label panel' that's held in place by just the switch nuts or boots.
Along with the panel, I’ll provide full scale templates that you can use to precisely locate the panel and cutout area, if any. Some examples…

Complete with switches, guards and boots...

Panels and switch guards only…

With Deutch connectors...

Ordering

To be able to give you a price quote I’ll need to know:

1. What size, shape, and number of panels you’re thinking of.
2. How many switches, what they’ll operate, and how you’d like them labeled.
3. What options/level of completion, i.e. bare plates, or with switches, guards, or connectors.
4. Color, if paint filled.
5. Other special requirements, e.g. logos, boat names, etc.

Once that’s determined, I’ll send you a full scale proof to approve before any fabrication is started. I want to be sure that you're getting exactly what you want. Since this usually involves some back and forth communication, and we can’t send PMs with attachments here, it’s best to email me at: GrassyPondBoats(at)gmail(dot)com. I’ll get back to you as quickly as I can and get you my phone number if you'd like to talk about your project.